Followers

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Toxic Mulch ?

 Good Mulching Material

Mulching beds has become extremely popular these days, and mulch can be really beneficial to your plants and the soil in your planting beds, but there are things you need to watch for. 
Here in Ohio the most popular type of mulch that people use is shredded hardwood bark mulch, which is a by product of the timber industry. 

When they haul the logs into the sawmill the first thing they do is debark them. Years ago the bark was a huge problem for the mills because there didn't seem to be a useful purpose for it, until people realized the hidden benefits that it held. Still to this day, the bark is a headache for the saw mills, and they don't always understand how to properly handle it. 

They like to pile it as high as they can so it takes up less space in their yard. The mulch really tends to back up during the winter months because there is little demand for it. In order for the mills to pile the mulch high, they literally have have to drive the large front end loaders up onto the pile. Of course the weight of these large machines compacts the mulch in the pile, and this can become a huge problem for you or I if we happen to get some mulch that has been stacked too high, and compacted too tightly. 

When the trees are first debarked the mulch is fairly fresh, and needs to decompose before we dare use it around our plants. The decomposition process requires oxygen and air flow into the pile. When the mulch is compacted too tight, this air flow can not take place, and as the mulch continues to decompose it becomes extremely hot as the organic matter ferments. Sometimes the extreme heat combined with the inability to release the heat can cause the pile to burst into flame through spontaneous combustion. 

In other cases the mulch heats up, can not release the gas, and the mulch actually becomes toxic. When this occurs the mulch develops an overbearing odor that will take your breath away as you dig into the pile. When you spread this toxic mulch around your plants the gas it contains is released, and this gas can and will burn your plants. 

It has happened to me twice. Once at my own house, and once on a job I was doing for a customer. This toxic mulch is very potent. We spilled a little mulch in the foliage of a Dwarf Alberta Spruce that we were mulching around, and just a few minutes later brushed the mulch out of the plant. The next day my customer noticed that one side of the plant was all brown. The mulch had only been there for a matter of minutes.

Not only did I have to replace the Dwarf Alberta Spruce, but the mulch also damaged at least 10 other plants that I had to replace. I once saw where somebody ordered a truckload of mulch, had it dumped in their driveway, and as the toxic mulch slid out of the dump truck onto the asphalt the toxic gas that was released settled on the lawn next to the driveway. 
The gas, not the mulch, turned the grass brown next to the mulch pile. 

This same person spread several yards of the mulch around their house before they realized the problem, and it ruined many of their plants. 

Now here's the hard part. Trying to explain to you how to identify toxic mulch. It has a very strong odor that will take your breath away. But then again almost all mulch has a powerful odor. This is very different than your typical mulch smell, but I can't explain it any better than that. 

The mulch looks perfectly normal, maybe a little darker in color than usual. If you suspect a problem with the mulch you have, take a couple of shovels full, and place it around an inexpensive plant. Maybe just a couple of flowers. When doing this test use mulch from inside the mulch pile and not from the edges. The mulch on the edge of the pile has more than likely released most of the toxic gas that it may have held. 

If after 24 hours the test plants are okay, the mulch should be fine. The
purpose of this article is not to induce panic at the mulch yard, but toxic mulch can do serious damage. At my house it burned the leaves right off some of the plants in my landscape, and burned the grass next to the bed all the way around the house. It looked like somebody had taken a torch and burned the grass back about 2” all the way around the bed. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I wouldn't have believed it.



Monday, April 5, 2010

Controlling Weed Natural Way

 
Weeds: Control Without PoisonsControl of Pests and Weeds by Natural Enemies: An Introduction to Biological Control Ecological Management of Agricultural WeedsThe Gardener's Weed Book: Earth-Safe Controls

 Weeds are a problem faced by everyone who enjoys gardening. When we carefully prepare the soil to make a good home for our garden plants, we’re also creating ideal conditions for weeds to thrive. 

Weeds not only detract from the beauty of our gardens, but they also compete for the water and nutrition that is meant to be used by the more desirable plants.

So what’s a gardener to do about weeds? We can smother existing weeds when creating new planting beds, but despite our best efforts, weed seeds will always be blowing into the beds. When those weed seeds germinate and grow, the weeds will once again make themselves right at home in the garden.

Now there’s a natural product available that helps prevent weed seeds from growing in the garden, and surprisingly, it is made from corn.

Corn gluten is a byproduct of the wet-milling process and has traditionally been used in cattle and poultry feed and also as an ingredient in dog food. It was discovered entirely by accident that corn gluten can also be used to prevent weed seeds from germinating. Not only can it suppress weeds, but it will also help feed your garden plants since it is also a source of nitrogen. And corn gluten won’t harm pets, people, birds or insects, making it very safe to use.

Corn gluten works by preventing germinated seeds from growing a root. A plant that has already grown roots will not be affected by corn gluten. For the best results, the corn gluten should be applied early in the season, before the weed seeds germinate and grow roots. As a pre-emergent herbicide, corn gluten tends to have a cumulative effect and becomes even more effective on weed seeds with repeated applications over time. One application of corn gluten continues to suppress weeds for 4-6 weeks, a bit less if the weather is unusually rainy or hot.

Corn gluten is typically applied by broadcasting it on the growing bed at a rate of 20-40 pounds per 1000 square feet. It may then be lightly raked into just the surface of the soil and watered in. Corn gluten will not be effective unless it is wetted and should be given a gentle shower after being applied. However, if there is a long rainy period after the corn gluten has been applied, it may lose its effectiveness. As with any herbicide, it can wash away, and weed seedlings may even recover and begin again to form roots if the soil surface remains wet for an extended time. Keep an eye on the weather and apply the corn gluten when no rain is expected for a few days. Always follow the instructions on the package when applying any herbicide or fertilizer.

Corn gluten will not harm mature plants and can be safely used in an existing flowerbed, vegetable garden or potted plants. Vegetable or flower seeds that are planted deeply, such as peas, corn or beans, won’t be affected by the corn gluten. But avoid using corn gluten where shallow-seeded plants such as lettuce or carrots will be grown. The corn gluten won’t have an effect on deeply planted seeds, but it will inhibit root growth in seeds that are planted close to the surface.

Corn gluten is sold under several brand names. Look for corn gluten herbicides at your local garden center or in the organic section of gardening catalogs. With a good dose of corn gluten on the garden, you can enjoy the garden more and spend less time pulling weeds

More Reading Resources
Principles of Weed Control in California

Tips & Ideas

Plant-Care.com

Related Posts with Thumbnails