Beneficial Garden Pest That You Want to Live in Your Garden

Not all garden pests are harmful for your garden. Some garden pests, in fact, provide excellent pest control to protect your plants from other quite harmful insects. Isn’t nature wonderful? Here are 5 well-known garden pests which you wouldn't object to having in your garden. Some very useful techniques are also offered on how you can attract these insects that are in your area over to your garden.

1. Praying mantis. Praying mantises are regarded as the consummate small-sized predator. They are something to behold in their natural environment. The manner in which they hunt down their prey is methodical and meticulous. This makes them efficiently dangerous for other garden insects, but they are never dangerous for your garden. They harm it not at all.
Praying mantises can immediately put a stop to any pest infestation that may have started in your area. As a matter of fact, most gardening shops sell praying mantises for this purpose alone. That’s how useful they are.

2. Ladybugs. If you're living in North America, then chances are very good that your garden will host this kind of bug. They are extremely widespread and so are very common.
Ladybugs feed on soft-bodied insects. These soft-bodies are harmful for your garden. Ladybugs will even feed on the eggs and larvae of these harmful garden pests. This is what makes ladybugs an excellent feature of natural pest control.

3. Spiders. We all know what many spiders do. They capture insects with their webs and feed on them. In this way, these spiders help to manage pest infestation. Those that dwell in gardens are usually not poisonous or lethal, and there is virtually no risk of these creatures ever creeping into the household.

If you want to attract spiders in your garden, grow some permanent perennials. These kinds of spiders find perennials very suitable for a home.

4. Tachinid flies. Grow some pollen and nectar plants, and you'll be able to attract this variety of flies. Once in your garden, these Tachinid flies will feed on small harmful insects. We're talking about armyworms, cutworms and cabbage loopers. How about caterpillars, gypsy moths, squash bugs and sawflies? All of these pests will eat away at your plants and give you a decaying garden. Tachinid flies to the rescue!
5. Parasitic wasps. Again, by providing pollen and nectar plants, you'd be able to attract these beneficial garden insects. They really will help your garden because these parasitic wasps will attack and feed on the eggs of harmful insects. With parasitic wasps inhabiting your garden, you'd be able to stop the infestation of dangerous insects by eliminating their very source: their eggs.
Isn’t that wonderful to have insects that will help your garden grow instead of damaging it? There are more kinds of insects that can help you in dealing different types of pest invasions. Take the time to learn them. Your garden will be better for it. Isnare, Len Q.

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Build a Greenhouse For Yourself

A greenhouse is a place made of plastic or glass to trap the energy of the sun and grow various kinds of plants in that place. In order to build a good enough greenhouse you are going to need some important stuff. The aim is to build a place to nurture those plants which cannot grow in colder climates. This place should be such that the plants can get adequate ventilation, warmth and humidity so that they can grow in a healthy manner. Since the greenhouse is an intensive system you would want to grow as many fruits and vegetables possible in that place. Otherwise it will simply not be a cost effective system.

People think that as they depend only on sun rays to give warmth to their plants and do not need an alternative system of heating, no more equipment is required. There are a lot of utilities that are needed to maintain a good greenhouse. The most important of all is a good ventilation system. If on some days the sun is hot, the plants will receive too much heat and they will suffer. On the other hand, if it’s a cloudy day the plants will not be able to receive adequate sunlight and they will again suffer. The ventilation system if good can help tide over this problem. The cheapest way would be to go there and open the doors and windows on a hot day.

It is essential for you to decide how you would want your plants to grow. They can be grown on the ground and also on benches. The best place to grow plants is on the ground but as you grow them year after year in the same place the soil will lose its nutrient content and the risk of diseases to plants also goes up. You can either replace the soil annually or use commercial potting compost. The latter is a better bet as it is very easy to handle compared to the former. Changing whole of the soil is not going to be an easy task.

If you are in a position to spend some extra bucks then you can get an automatic system installed. There are various varieties in automated ventilation system also. It can be a complex involving fans and a simple one in which it controls the opening of windows. The trigger for working is the temperature in the greenhouse. Having a good watering system in place is also very important for the health of plants. You can water the plants by carrying a can of water or have an elaborate system of maybe drip irrigation in the greenhouse. 

A proper lighting system is also essential in it. It will help in extending the growing season for you. Get an electrician to get the fittings done so that power can reach the greenhouse. A properly planned greenhouse will delight many especially if the gardener has limited mobility in the greenhouse. Having benches can be useful. They help in freeing up space for re potting plants and mixing of compost. A path of well laid stones can have the fairy tale effect on the greenhouse. Isnare, Simona Rusnakova

Repotting Orchids

Don’t repot unless you have to! There are two reasons to repot your orchid: poor drainage and overgrowth. If orchid growth extends beyond the edge of the pot, leaving brittle and easily damaged young roots dangling in the air, it’s time to repot. If the growing medium has decomposed, appearing sodden and mushy and no longer draining quickly, it’s time to repot. 

When in doubt, put it off for another year! On the other hand, an orchid that remains in the same pot too long will flower poorly and may even die. Although it isn’t a difficult task, it is different from repotting other kinds of houseplants. The good news is that there is no need to hurry and cover the roots before they dry. Most orchids like their roots exposed to air. So take your time. If you need to take a break or do an errand, just cover the roots with a damp cloth.

When To Repot: In general the best time to repot is late spring and early summer before the onset of vigorous new growth. Particular orchid types such as those with pseudobulbs - the bulbous growths - such as the Cattleya, prefer to be repotted just after new growth but before new roots have begun to elongate. 

If your orchid type lacks pseudobulbs, such as a moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) or a slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum), repot any time, except when blooming. Roots that grow exposed to the air for any length of time will most likely die when packed beneath the bark surface, so try to repot just as new growth is beginning to appear. If you wait too long and your plant is already well into its new season, hold off until after your orchid has bloomed, otherwise you will lose the flowers and you’ll run the risk of killing the plant’s entire new root system. 

Repotting should be done every year-and-a-half to two years, before the potting medium begins to break down into peat and loam. Waiting longer than two years allows the broken-down medium to retain too much moisture, which cuts off air circulation around the roots causing root rot. Follow these general repotting guidelines: Annually for Dendrobium, Miltonia, Paphiopedilum, Phalaenopsis, and their hybrids. Every other year for Cattleya, Dendrobium, Oncidium, Odontoglossum, and their hybrids. Every third year for Vanda and Cymbidium.

Cleanliness: This is the most important precaution, because orchids are particularly susceptible to diseases. Repotting will inevitably involve breaking a few roots and even cutting the plant. You will be coating all these cuts and breaks with medicine as described below. Repot into new or sterilized containers only. 

Sterilize your instruments by placing them in a solution of 1/2 cup bleach to 1 gallon of water for 10-15 minutes and letting them air-dry. Or wipe every surface area of your tools with rubbing alcohol. Or pass them through an intense flame such as a plumber’s torch. Wash your hands before you begin. 

If you are a smoker, Tobacco Mosaic Virus will likely be present on your fingertips so additionally rinse your hands in the bleach and water solution. Thoroughly wipe your work surface with the disinfectant solution you’ve chosen. Repeat wiping the work surface after each plant that you repot.

Pot: Orchids like to be a little tight in their pots. Overly large pots tend to direct orchids into root growth and delay new foliage and blooms for months. Orchids may be potted in plastic, clay, or decorator pots, and the type of pot selected may influence watering frequency. For instance, plants in clay pots will need more frequent watering since they dry faster. Orchid pots must have drain holes. 

Orchid soil in the center of larger pots may remain wet for long periods and kill orchid roots. This can be avoided by placing pieces of clay pots in the bottom of the pot. My favorite way to repot orchids into large pots is to place a small inverted pot in the center of the larger one, with the roots of the plant draped over and around the smaller pot. This provides excellent aeration and drainage. The roots of some orchids, such as Phalaenopsis, carry out photosynthesis. For these plants, clear pots are popular, allowing light to reach the roots.

What You Need

1. Pot. Choose a sterilized pot large enough to sustain at least a year or two of new growth. Remember, if the pot is too large to allow the medium to dry enough between waterings, the roots of your orchid will rot.

2. Soil. Bark, sphagnum, charcoal, perlite, “sponge-rok,” chunk peat, tree fern fibers, oyster shell, coconut husk, or combinations of these depending on your type of orchid, are found at your local garden center. It’s important to use the correct medium for your particular type of orchid. Just look up the name of your orchid online for quick information.

3. Shards. Sanitized clay pot shards, non-biodegradable styrofoam peanuts, or lava rock will cover your pot’s drainage holes without obstructing water from draining quickly.

4. Tools. Sanitized pruning clippers or a sharp knife will be used to divide your plant or trim dead roots.

5. Stake and Ties. A bamboo stake and wire plant tie will hold your newly potted plant steady until its roots grow enough to anchor it.

6. Medicine. Pruning sealer, anti-fungal powder, or antibiotic ointment from your medicine cabinet should be applied in a thin layer to any open cuts on the plant – leaves, stems, or roots – to prevent illness.

Step-By-Step Instructions

1. The Day Before You Repot: Water your orchid thoroughly. A good watering the day before will create pliable roots which are easier to work with and less susceptible to breakage. Wet the medium with boiling water and allow it to soak in a container overnight. The mix will absorb moisture allowing it to be easily placed around the roots of your plant.

2. Un-pot Your Orchid: Prepare your work area by spreading out several sheets of newspaper. Turn the plant upside down over the paper and tap the sides and bottom of the pot to dislodge it. If roots stick to the pot, use a sterilized kitchen knife to loosen them. The plant will not be harmed if you inadvertently damage some roots. Carefully pry the roots apart and shake off as much of the old potting mixture as possible. Don’t worry if some still clings to the roots.

3. Trim: Before repotted, trim the roots. Be sure to sterilize these and all implements used. Remove any dead or damaged roots. Dead roots are mushy and light brown. Healthy roots are firm and white with light-green growing tips. Also cut off any old leafless pseudobulbs. If there is more than one new growth, or "lead," you can divide the plant by cutting through the rhizome. Each division should have at least three pseudobulbs and a new lead.

4. Place Shards: Orchids need excellent drainage, so place a generous layer of broken clay pot or plastic foam peanuts in the bottom of the pot.

5. Add Soil: When placing the plant in the pot, position the older pseudobulbs against one side so that the new lead has room to expand. Pack the dampened mixture around the roots, firming it with your thumbs as you go. Don’t pack the medium – remember orchid roots like aeration. The top of the rhizome should be level with the top of the bark.

6. Aftercare: To keep the plant upright while its new root system is getting established, stake it securely with a loop of twine or use any kind of plant clip that attaches the stem comfortably to the stake. Put the orchid in a lightly shaded location and mist both the plant and the surface of the bark twice daily until new root growth is evident. Once the roots have penetrated the bark, move the plant into brighter light and resume normal watering and fertilizing.